St Cross, Oxford, England

Denomination

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Mystery Worshipper:
Church: St Cross
Location: Oxford, England
Date of visit: Sunday, 15 September 2019, 3:30pm

The building

This is a redundant church (except for the chancel) leased to Balliol College to house historic manuscripts and archives. It is a Grade I listed building that was converted in 2010/11. During this period, conservation work was undertaken on the structure of the building, the stained glass, and memorials. The chancel has been preserved for occasional services and the church has not been deconsecrated. The church was founded in the 9th century, possibly by St Grimwald, but no early remains have been found. It was originally a chapel of ease of the nearby St Peter-in-the East, now the library of St Edmund Hall. Expansion, restoration, rebuilding and renovation have taken place over the years. Some of the windows are Perpendicular Gothic and the rest are Victorian Gothic Revival. On a literary note: In Dorothy Sayers’ 1937 novel Busman’s Honeymoon, the last of her novels to feature the characters of Lord Peter Wimsey and his mystery writer fiancée Harriet Vane, the two are married at St Cross before departing for their honeymoon-cum-murder investigation.

The church

There is no church community as such; what services there are fall under the care of the University Church of St Mary the Virgin, whose benefice was extended in 1966 to include St Cross. Years of financial stress with an ever declining congregation continued due mainly to the ordinary population being replaced by the buildings of the ever-growing university and college. The church valiantly struggled on until 2008, when it finally closed and the congregation dispersed.

The neighborhood

The neighbourhood consists of university colleges and buildings. Just up the road there is more life in Holywell Street, which leads to the city centre and which includes two popular pubs, New College, the Holywell Music Room, plus student accommodation. Next to the church on one side is Holywell Cemetery, a hidden gem that is a wildlife haven and the resting place of several notable people. The cemetery also contains three war graves that are registered and maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Next to the church on the other side is the historic Holywell Manor, which houses the majority of Balliol College's post-graduate students.

The cast

A college chaplain led the service and the vicar the prayers. Two lay people read the lessons and four members of the university church choir sang the service.

What was the name of the service?

Choral Evensong, the Patronal Festival of the Holy Cross.

How full was the building?

The chancel was absolutely full with two clergy, four choristers and choir director, and eleven members of the congregation. Immediately in front of the chancel there were about a further thirty people.

Did anyone welcome you personally?

One of the stewards greeted me warmly and handed me a service sheet. Two of the people who sat next to me, said hello and told me where they'd come from and a bit about themselves, and asked me about where I was from.

Was your pew comfortable?

The pew (former choir stall) was very uncomfortable, with little leg room, and we were squashed in.

How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?

It was quietly chaotic with subdued conversations. They were obviously not expecting many people, although the centre and cemetery were open for the Oxford Open Doors weekend and so they might have anticipated that visitors would pop in. Extra chairs were hastily found and we were asked to share service sheets. The choir were rehearsing.

What were the exact opening words of the service?

After the introit and first hymn, the vicar said, ‘Welcome to St Cross Church for this service of evensong.’

What books did the congregation use during the service?

A service booklet containing the whole service, which was taken from the Book of Common Prayer. The booklet also contained hymns, some background on the feast of the Holy Cross, and an invitation to drinks after the service.

What musical instruments were played?

No instruments, just the choir. The organ had been removed to provide extra space for the centre and ended up in a church in Ireland.

Did anything distract you?

My aching back due to the uncomfortable pews. The over-the-top conducting of the choir by the music director – there were only four of them, for goodness’ sake! I know that choristers are taught to pronounce their consonants, but these singers, plus their director, very audibly sounded theirs, especially at the end of some words. They sang beautifully, though – see below.

Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?

Formal Anglican evensong worship but not too stiff.

Exactly how long was the sermon?

No sermon.

Which part of the service was like being in heaven?

Beautiful singing by the four part unaccompanied choir: introit: William Byrd’s setting of Ave Verum Corpus; responses by John Ayleward; canticles by Orlando Gibbons; anthem: God So Loved the World by John Stainer (rather apt, as his earthly remains lie in repose in the cemetery next door). Excellent prayers led by the vicar. Also, good congregational unaccompanied singing of the two hymns: 'Faithful Cross, above all other' and ' Lift high the cross, the love of God proclaim,' which rather moved me.

And which part was like being in... er... the other place?

A rather strange woman sat on one side of me who, for most of the service, turned her back on me. I learned that she was a visitor and not part of the university church congregation. One of the choir members leaving his music in his seat (twice) and having to go back to the back of the chancel pews from the front to retrieve it.

What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?

Two men, father and son, chatted to me, but the strange woman was very curt when I tried to engage her. After that, I wandered into the nave looking lost, and someone came up to me and asked if I was going to the refreshments. Although I was reluctant, she persuaded me, and we sauntered along to the Holywell Manor together.

How would you describe the after-service coffee?

The very jolly praefectus (the resident supervising Fellow) and his friendly wife hosted an informal reception in the 16th century former farmhouse. Red, white and rosé wine were on offer, along with some superior soft drinks. Real glasses – no plastic here. The nibbles consisted of rustic cheese straws and grapes. People were friendly and there was a mix of members of the university church congregation (some academics, I discovered), both visitors and students.

How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?

9 — I might make the effort to go next year but will sit in the chairs rather than the uncomfortable pews.

Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?

Yes, definitely – the worship particularly, and it was good to see how welcomed visitors were.

What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?

Probably the stewards being taken by surprise by the number of people who turned up, and scooting around looking for extra chairs. But also the singing.

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